Saturday, 18 April 2015

REVIEW - Clinique Super City Block SPF40

Everybody should be using a broad-spectrum sunscreen (UVA protection) EVERY day. Yes, even in the colder months, on rainy days and if you don't work outside. The reason for this are UVA rays. I will write a full-blown sunscreen-post in the future, but for now I will give you just the basics - once you get the principle, it is no rocket-science!
As most of you may know there are three kinds of UV-rays: 
  • UVA (A like AGING + skin cancer): 320-400nm (UVA1=350-400nm, UVA2=320-350nm) 
  • UVB (B like BURNING + skin cancer): 280-320nm
  • UVC 100-280 (this type is almost completely blocked by the ozon layer)
No amount of wrinkle-wonder cream can heal the damage in skin better than just preventing it from happening by simply putting on sufficient UVA protection daily. This is the most tricky part: "SPF" is sadly NOT the amount of UVA protection you will get. 
So look out for this sign: UVA-Symbol as it guarantees at least 30% of the SPF in UVA protection, or the PA (The Protection Grade of UVA) reaching from "+" to "+++"!

So let's FINALLY review the product! As always I will put the brand's claims in italic and my perspective in bold. In the ingredient list I will mark the sunscreen agents specially! 

What is it? 

High-level daily sunscreen in a sheer, weightless formula. 
A good sunscreen that tries to take off the whitening edge with a little tint. Wouldn't call the formula "weightless".

What does it do? 
Protects against sun and environmental damage with broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sun block and antioxidants.
The UVA protection could be higher for my taste, it does however contain a very nice blend of antioxidants, that not only are great for the skin by themselves, but work against any kind of free-radical damage the chemical sunscreen agent could produce. 

Who is it for?  
For all skins, even the most sensitive. 
For normal to dry skin and fair to light/medium toned skins, as I think it could look quite ashy on darker complexions (don't really know, as I am quite fair toned, but try it out first). If you are sensitive be cautious of the chemical sunscreen as it might be irritating, the lack of Alcohol in this formula is just what I've been looking for, as my skin doesn't like that at all, so I have no complains whatsoever in the reaction-department (sadly I found loads of Alcohol in tons of sunscreens especially formulated for sensitive skin - thanks a lot for NOTHING). I am not sure, if my oily friends would like it, as it might still be a little too greasy.

When to use it? 
Apply after all treatment products and before makeup. Apply to clean skin after using your 3-Step Skin Care System.
As they said: last step of your skincare-routine, but before make-up. Pleasepleaseplease ignore the "3-Step Skin Care System" part. First: you do NOT need to use all the products of one "system" of ANY brand. There is no such thing. They want to sell stuff, that's why they tell you that. Don't listen to them, use what you need and what fits your skin and budget/splurge depending on the things you use. Second: I personally don't think highly of the Clinique 3-Step System as I think it is the worst "thing" of the whole brand. Broke my skin with it once, bar soap and alcohol toner: NO THANK YOU, NOT FOR ME. I honestly don't know why they still sell it, I doubt that it can help anyone.

How to use it? 
Wear alone or as an invisible makeup primer.
Using fingertips, apply to cheeks, forehead, nose and chin. Blend. Remove with your favourite Clinique makeup remover formula.
I am quite pale already, so I can get away with wearing it alone, if I don't care how I look, as it still leaves a whitening cast (sets after a while) and makes your skin very shiny (I usually take that off with a tissue, when I am not wearing make-up). Works good under makeup, I had issues with it rolling, when I used to many silicony products underneath, but that's not really it's fault. My biggest issue with Clinique's application advice on the website is: THERE IS NO RECOMMENDED AMOUNT. Seriously? What's wrong with you? Most people use too little sunscreen and YES, it doesn't look that good if you apply the necessary amount, but you will not get sufficient protection if you use too little. You have to use around a grape-sized amount for your face and neck, depending on the size of your face/neck, use more. Don't forget your ears and pay extra attention to the areas where you would usually get a sunburn (nose, cheeks, forehead,...) or where you can already see fine lines/wrinkles. Please don't forget your eyes, people!! Most sunscreens don't "run", so you can put them (this Clinique one included) very close to the lashline. Reapply, if you are spending your day outside!

What is in it?*
Aqua (= Purified Water) - Solvent  
Trioctyldodecyl Citrate - Emollient/Skin Conditioning Agent
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate - Chemical Sunscreen Active (UVB)
Butylene Glycol - Slip Agent
Titanium Dioxide (Nano) - Mineral Sunsceen Active (UVB+UVA2) 
DimethiconeSlip Agent/Emollient/Silicone
Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate - Emollient/Skin Conditioning Agent 
Steareth-2 - Emulsifier
Ethylhexyl Salicylate - Chemical Sunscreen Active (UVB)
Silica - Thickening/Emulsifier 
Rosa Roxburghii Fruit Extract (Chestnut Rose Extract) - Antioxidant
Citrus Unshiu (Satsuma) Peel Extract - Antioxidant (fragrant oils can cause irritation)
Porphyra Yezoensis (Algae) Extract - Antioxidant
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract - Anti-Irritant/Antioxidant/Anti-inflammatory/Anti-Acne
Saccharomyces Lysate Extract - Antioxidant
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract - Antioxidant
Betula Alba (Birch) Bark Extract - Antioxidant 
Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract - Antioxidant (topically unproven)
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract - Antioxidant (fragrant components can cause irritation)
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seedcake - Emollient, has the ability to help repair skin's barrier and reduce inflammation, excellent for dry skin
Gentiana Lutea (Gentian) Root Extract - Antibacterial/Anti-Acne/Anti-Irritants
Yeast Extract - Antioxidant
Sodium RNA - Skin Conditioning Agent 
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate - Antioxidant
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate - Anti-Irritant
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) - Antioxidant/Cell-Communicating 
Pantethine (Vitamin B5) - might be Anti-Acne
Squalane - Antioxidant/Skin-Identical/Repairing Ingredient
Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate - Emulsifier/Emollient
Propylene Glycol Dicaprate - Slip Agent
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) - Antioxidant
Hexylene Glycol - Slip Agent
PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone - Slip Agent/Silicone
Capryl Glycol - Preservative
Barium Sulfate - Irritant 
Polyethylene - Thickeners/Emulsifiers/Emollients (when in form of beads a threat to maritime wildlife!)
Xanthan Gum - Thickeners/Emulsifiers
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate - Thickeners/Emulsifiers
Lecithin - Skin-Identical/Repairing 
Ceteth-2 - Solvent
PEG-40 - Thickener/Emulsifier
Sodium Stearate - Thickener
Steareth-20 - Surfactant
Sorbitan Tristearate - Surfactant
Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate - Silicones/Thickeners/Emulsifiers
Stearic Acid - Thickener/Emulsifier
Aluminum Hydroxide - Absorbent/Thickeners/Emulsifiers
Citric Acid - pH Adjuster, prevents product from being too alkaline
Disodium EDTA - Chelating Agent (Stabilizer)
BHT - Antioxidant
Phenoxyethanol - Preservative
Mica - Colour
CI 77499 Iron Oxides - Pigment
Titanium Dioxide - Mineral Sunscreen Active (UVB/UVA2)
Zinc Oxide - Mineral Sunscreen Active (UVB/UVA1+2)

Anything problematic/irritating?
The amount of irritants is most likely too low to cause any issues, but if you know you are very sensitive, or are allergic to any of the ingredients stay away of course. 

"Natural"?
No.

Let's see the beauty in action, photos have been taken in daylight (sorry, the lights changed a bit), no filters obviously! 
A little blob of the Clinique Super City Block SPF 40 on the back of my hand in daylight
After spreading it lightly with still a beige/white cast.
After blending it into the skin, I personally cannot see any difference in colour to the rest of my skin, the skin is shinier though. 
The light changed a little, so my skin looks a bit "darker" but this is what it looks like after about 5 minutes, still a little shiny, but set nicely. Skin on the hands is of course a little different, than skin on your face, but it will hopefully still give you a first impression!

This is it for today, you lovies, be sure to leave any questions or suggestions (I am always looking for good sunscreens to try) in the comment-section below, stay tuned for my next posts, have fun, be gentle, love yourself, love your skin! 

N.

P.S.: You can buy this item in department stores or online.
*Remember that ingredient-lists are always ordered from highest-lowest percentage in the product, so even with potentially irritating ingredients we have to think like Paracelsus: "The dose makes the poison". I mainly use Paula's Choice http://www.paulaschoice.com/cosmetic-ingredient-dictionary/ and http://cosmeticsinfo.org/ for my ingredient research, but as always: feel free to do your own research and read all sources with a pinch of salt because even scientific studies can be interpreted in different ways. The colors mean:
Blue - great/best ingredient with many benefits for your skin
Green - good ingredient
Orange - average ingredient, potentially irritating, best to have more to the end of the inci-list
Red - bad ingredient, irritating, best to be avoided completely, otherwise: see that only at the very end of the list

* all products mentioned in this post have been purchased by myself!

1 comment:

  1. Hi there,
    How often would you recommend reapplying the cream. The lady in the store told me to reapply every 5 hours but that seems too good to be true.

    ReplyDelete